Ford T9 Transmission rebuild/upgrade:
Rebuilding/Upgrading my T9 transmission to BGH E7 gear set and adding a few more upgrades:
(tear dropping main-shaft gears: 2-5, (up-rated 1st already has a larger oil slot),
making the rear/bottom and sandwich plate oil hole 1/2" in diameter (to include gasket hole),
increasing the size of the oil shelf on the left side of main sandwich plate,
milling an oil step in the sandwich plate lay cluster bearing shoulder,
adding an oil drain plug, adding screws to hold in the speedo bung,
adding a fitting in the top cover for a remote breather/oil-fill assembly,
and painting it of course. This will be a tranny swap into a 1976 Triumph Spitfire 1500, with a Ford 2.0L Ecoboost crate motor swap as well, with a MT82 transmission and custom remote,
I was going to go with "Rear Wheel Drive Motor Sports" Duratec to T9 bellhousing and central hydraulic throw out bearing, but they are a RIP-OFF!! They claimed the ecoboost motor was/is a Duratec, it is NOT, the bellhousing they sold me was WAY, WAY to small and they would not make it right, nor give me my money back so buyer beware!! They even claimed they would make me a custom bellhousing.......2 months and several unanswered emails, and phone calls NO RESPONSE! So, MT82 (Mustang 6 speed) will fit the 2.0 (and 2.3) bolt patterns are the same, I will have to shorten the remote, but I can get it to within 0.5" of where the T9 shifter would have fallen, IF I could have gotten a company that was not a lier and a rip-off.
At any rate, this is the build process page for the T9, I will do a seperate one for the MT82 as that takes shape.
11x17 exploded drawing up, printed manual pages out, tools ready to start
Removing case cover and shifter (added rose jointed quick shifter)
Cover and shifter off
Going to replace the nylon saddle clip with a brass one
Gears as yet untouched......
Going to pop out the shifter rear cover
Cover out
5th gear locking plate, spring and button out
Wood support so I can knock out the rear shift saddle roll pin, ready to pop the pin out
Brass drift, pop it right out
Removing the 5th gear interlock plate
Wood support so I can knock out the rear shift saddle roll pin, ready to pop the pin out
Pin and shift saddle out
Shift rod front lock screw located
Screw and spring out, using pen magnet to pull the button out
Screw and spring out, using pen magnet to pull the button out
gear select holding button and spring out
Putting the parts in labeled bag with matching number from the manual that deals with that part(s).
3 easy taps with the brass mallet and tail slides right off
I had to make a dowel pin, since one was missing
Removing the tail and sandwich plate bolts out
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What the shift forks look like re-assembled onto the shift rod
Speedo gear and cover out
Speedo seal in
About to put in the shift rod seal
About to put in speedo seal
Shift rod seal in
Old bush was rotated wrong for oil groove
New bush with oil groove correct orientation
Ready to put in real seal
Rear seal in
5th driven gear, sleeve/hub/syncro and speedo drive gear pulled back
Front input shaft clutch sleeve cut off flush (required for fitting with central hydraulic throw out bearing)
Input shaft cover painted
"Tools" (bent rod) for popping out the lay shaft sandwich plate bearing for getting between the case and sandwich plate and popping out the lay shaft bearing
5th drive gear pulled
Lay shaft pulled out
New input shaft ready for new bearings
Oil hole(s) in input shaft gear, (will be doing oil scallops on these)
Input shaft pulled out
New bearing on input shaft
Bearing inside the input shaft
Sleeve pressed onto lay shaft (12.75m,) for up-rated lay gear cluster with HD bearing
New up-rated lay gear cluster and new HD bearing onto lay shaft with sleeve.
Ready to pull of speedo drive gear
3rd gear and 3rd/4th gear sleeve/hub/synchros off
Pressing the main shaft out the sandwich plate
Main shaft out
Oil gallery hole enlarged to 1/2" through case and sandwich plate (gasket also)
Grinding done
About to grind the internal rear wall web for the new taller 1st gear lay cluster clearance.
Tear dropped the oil holes (x3) in the input shaft gear
Tear Dropped the oil holes in the new 5th gear, 2cd and 3rd, (the new first already had an oil slot cut)
Ready to drill for a oil drain plug
Tapping a 1/4" NPT drain plug hole
Tail housing set up to drill two security hold screws for the speedo bung
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Security holes drilled & tapped for M3 - 0.5 button head cap screws
Sandwich plate with layouts for material removal, left side oiling shoulder on the main shaft bearing and the lower 1/2 (about 4mm) on the lay shaft bearing for better oiling
Sandwich plate with layouts for material removal, left side oiling shoulder on the main shaft bearing and the lower 1/2 (about 4mm) on the lay shaft bearing for better oiling
Main shaft (in the case) gears with new syncros assembled
You can see the machining to the left side shoulder on the main shaft bearing housing, and the 4mm “Step” on the lower half of the lay cluster bearing housing for better oiling Main shaft, sandwich plate with bearings assembled (temp bolted so the gasket sealer will dry in place), and case, sandwich plate, and tail housing (not shown) all painted
New E7 lay shaft laid in the bottom of the case
Top view of the main shaft in case gears
You can see the machining to the left side shoulder on the main shaft bearing housing, and the 4mm “Step” on the lower half of the lay cluster bearing housing for better oiling Main shaft, sandwich plate with bearings assembled (temp bolted so the gasket sealer will dry in place), and case, sandwich plate, and tail housing (not shown) all painted
Really like the rose jointed quick shifter, (the reverse switch is not yet installed until I get it in the car so not to damage it
​¼” NPT oil drain plug fitted, and blue lock tight applied for extra hold. Inside it fits through the center hole of the case magnate
Vent/fill hole angle brass fitting installed in The top cover. A ½” hose will go from here to the Inside firewall with a “filter/breather” that I can remove to fill the tranny with fluid during maintenance
Tranny DONE!! Showing vent/fill hose attached with breather on the upper end will be attached to firewall with a right angle bracket, quick shifter base painted, Redline 75-90W gear oil has been put in and no leaks after 8 hours of watching (happy about that for sure)!
“RWD Motor Sports”, Duratec to T9 bellhousing installed, with central hydraulic throw out bearing (TOB)
NOTE!!!! This bellhousing only fits the "Duratec" tuye blocks NOT the Ecoboost block!
Showing the RWD Motor Sports, Central Hydraulic throw out bearing and stock mounting bolts
Designed a 5 Speed Shift knob for my T9 with shift pattern and triumph logo, going to have Brian: bptilt@myfairpoint.net
3D print that puppy in "Wood" color, and use some "Model" paint (White and Blue) to color in the shift pattern and logo
A few "gotcha's" I found:
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Make yourself a parts check list, and check them off in order,
I got in a hurry, and forgot to put in the 4th gear syncro when putting on the front input shaft........ grrrrrr, had to take it BACK APART just to be able to fit in the synchro, since the lay gear cluster will not let it sneak past. -
When putting your "Temp" holding bolts into the sandwich plate do NOT pick the one that is next to the Reverse gear........ Without the tail housing, it penetrates into the case and pushes over and engages the reverse gear. LOTS...... of cussing and head scratching on why my gears where locked up... until I figured it out and said.... "Duh".
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NOTE!!! The sandwich plate (intermediate plate), the rear lay gear cluster bearing is DIRECTIONAL!! Make SURE you put it in where the outside rollers can be pulled toward the back of the transmission!! It is SUPER hard to separate that bearing if you put it in backwards, (Unless you fabricate a custom inner race bearing puller like I had to do,
found this out when I had to disassemble for the 4th gear snchro I left out..... -
Save yourself some grief, don't use your hands to "Shift" the synchro hubs,
"To play with it", they move suddenly and they over-travel, when they do, the blocker
bars and springs go flying usually into some dark hard to find corner if you’re lucky you find it after much time searching for it. If you just HAVE to play with them, tap them very easy with a small hammer and drift, super light taps so they only move 1/16" or so at a time. -
Leave the "outer race" of the sandwich plate rear lay cluster bearing OUT until
you insert the input shaft, followed by the main shaft, THEN bring up from the bottom
the lay cluster tap the lay shaft through into the front case hole, then put in your two
holding bolts for the sandwich plate, then tap in the outer race of the rear lay cluster bearing. -
When fitting the tail housing back on, make sure your gears are in "4th",
this lines up the spring return shifter mechanism with the pin in the tail housing (clocks it correctly).
Snug up the 5th gear locking plate, but not tight (slightly more than hand tight with a socket in your hand),
test your shifting in case you got to move it around a little bit (you can tap the plate back and forth with a
drift), when it shifts right, then tighten it down.
NOTE: Again HIGHLY recommend against using "Rear Wheel Drive Motor Sports", they are total rip-offs. Lie their asses off about what will fit and will happily sell you the WRONG thing that will NOT fit your engine. Further even after multiple attempts at emails and phone calls they will NOT reply nor will they make it right. So, again BUYER BEWARE with these clowns.