Driveline:
All new U-Joints on drive shaft (prop shaft), and rear axle half shafts.
All new U-Joints on drive shaft (prop shaft), and rear axle half shafts.
Next is a stack of Shim Stock, 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, and 0.005" cut into squares and put into many layers,
for shims that fit both the Pinion head and tail (the tail can also be used for the GT6 rear bearing spacers,
since they are the same size), and lastly some carrier bearing shims. I also, drilled and tapped for a 1/4"
diff oil drain plug.
Diff cover Painted "Brake Caliper Red",
I still have to push out the old rear
bushing in this pic.
Not only rebuilding the differential, but machining a Quaife Limited Slip Differential (Torque Bias via helical gears), with a 3.27 Crown and Pinion (both with REM super polishing treatment). It requires taking off 0.050" from each of the mating faces of Crown and Carrier. The Gear was very hard and required a Micro Grain carbide tip to cut. I polished the surfaces where the Oil Seals go on the Flange and both stub axles so hopefully not leak any oil... Used the "Diff Spreader" I built to get the carrier out (and eventually back in).
Happy Day, I finished installing the 3.27:1 C/P gear set onto my Quaife LSD all fitted into a 3.89 pumpkin!! So, it CAN be done! I did have to mod (grind) a small part of the inner lip off of the diff cover where it hit the CW, I ground back about 1/8th of an inch off the top and bottom inner lip where the CW is, and it fit great, of note, IF anyone else decides to do this same fit up, on your Quaife Crown Wheel mating surface only turn back ***0.040", and turn 0.050" on the Crown wheel mating surface. All the seals & bearings replaced of course.
I had to turn down the SHCS where they stood up proud so they would not hit the carrier bearing cradle. This pic was before I had to add back a 0.010" shim spacer between the CW and quaife CW interface.
My home made Diff spreader, and Differential "Work Station" (slapped up a wood bench, it should survive long enough to do this job and maybe one more.) Quaife & CW dropped in for full float measurement for shim calculation.
Getting the "Mesh" measurement, and subtracting 0.005" for backlash, next two pics are showing good gear marking for both the drive and coast side.
Setting Backlash, starting at 0, and a 0.005" backlash was achieved per spec in the manual.
Getting the "Mesh" measurement, and subtracting 0.005" for backlash, next two pics are showing good gear marking for both the drive and coast side.
Done! You can still see some of the "Sweat" on the axle stubs where I had just took them out of the freezer so that they would drop in easier (they did), new fill hole plug and just have to insert the "Red" rear poly bushings and install it. I used "Royal Purple 75-90" oil since it is safe for yellow metals as well. (Not installed into car)
